MASK PAINTING - RoboDog and it's Tutorial

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MASK PAINTING

HEAD STUFF

PAINTING ROBODOG MASK

You can see what paints I used on the tools page.

After cleaning up the raw mask, I started by roughing up the plastic with fine sandpaper. Then primered it twice with grey primer, and then started painted by hand.

I also used these tools at this point:

Black Buckram Sheet (for slits of the muzzle): $5

Ring-magnets R821 1/2” x 1/8” x 1/16” (Qty 12 for back of mask): $12

Chicago Screws 1/4"(for jaw hinges): $5

Black Nylon Webbing 1" wide, 6" (for back plate attachment): $5

DETAILING THE MASK
Completely detailed neoprine / rubber back head plate. With the glare of the photo it looks much more muddy than in person.	These are the two black head plates. Left shows the larger neoprene back plate. The one on the right has magnets that snap it on. The smaller piece makes the back plate look much more "3D" when wering it.
This picture is probably the most important one in all the website here. This shows the neoprene chin piece attached to the jaw and "slit" so I can get my chin in the mask. Also, the back plate that is attached with 2" black nylon strapping (2 pieces).	Mask is completely in this photo, shows back of mask. Note that the neoprene plate does not exactly line up to the mask, but once you wear it, it is not as noticable. The back plate is being end in by glued in nylon strapping.
Mask is completely in this photo, shows left of mask.	Mask is completely in this photo, shows right of mask.
WEARING THE MASK
LEFT	RIGHT
FRONT	3/4 VIEW

PRIMERED PIECES
This picture shows the neoprene rubber back of the head and bottomjaw peices primered and ready to paint!	On the left shows the hard plastic piece that goes over the neoprene rubber back pices of the head. On the right is the bottom jaw that needs another layer of primer before painting.
RAR! Primered mask mouth open.	Primered mask mouth closed. You can see the slits that I cut with my rotary too. to help see and breahe..
RAR! Shows the whole mask, primered and ready for paint. This is not hooked together yet! They are still separate piecs.
Top left side of mask, primered. this shows the holes for the eyes really well.	Upside down, inside of mask, primered. (I ended up painting most of the inside black)
Left side. Shows the whole mask, primered and ready for paint. This is not hooked together yet! They are still separate pieces. This shows that the teeth are SHARP! (Yay, puddy!)	Right side. Shows the whole mask, primered and ready for paint. This is not hooked together yet! They are still separate piecs.

PAINTING THE MASK
Left side of the mask with the first layer of hand-painted silver on it.	Right side of the mask with the first layer of hand-painted silver on it.
Top of mask, showing only silver. (if you see the left, you will notice I was testing rusting a tiny bit).	Top of the mask with first labels of painting "Rust colors" on.
Right side of mask. This shows most of the "rust paint", this includes Silver, Brown, Mustard Yellow and a tiny bit of Red.	Left side of mask. This shows most of the "rust paint" colors on top of the silver.
ATTACHING PARTS / JAW
This shows the inner part of the back plate for the head. I glued three "donut magnets" two on top, and one on the bottom center (this picture shows the bottom one not attached yet) using E6000 adhesive. If you do this make sure you have your + and - opposite or they will not snap on!	These are custom hingest my friend Phil made on his laser cutter. These are made from delrin sheet which is light and very, strong, and heat-bendable.
It is kind of hard to see in this picture, but we bent the hinge (differently for each side) of the jaw then glued the hell out of it. (that is what the holes are for) It worked very well!	These are called "Chicago Screws", they are what we used to have the hing move smoothly on the head. (See them attached in the hinge picture above).